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Manual Focus Problems
#1

Hi All

I got a problem with manual focusing. I got an eye condition and both my eyes have grey patches in them. If I use just one eye, bits of what I am looking at are missing. I focus manually and the subject looks good but the image comes out with more blur than the pop group. However, if I use both eyes everything looks good. Does anyone out there know of any device that I can fix to my camera and use both eyes to focus with please?

Animator

If you see someone without a smile
Give them one of yours :-))
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#2

Hi. Have you tried using the digital screen, rather than the eye piece? I think its more difficult to get a steady shot and you can also magnify the image on the screen, at least on the Canon 60D, to check the focus more accurately.
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#3

(Oct 9, 2013, 11:36)Animator Wrote:  Hi All

I got a problem with manual focusing. I got an eye condition and both my eyes have grey patches in them. If I use just one eye, bits of what I am looking at are missing. I focus manually and the subject looks good but the image comes out with more blur than the pop group. However, if I use both eyes everything looks good. Does anyone out there know of any device that I can fix to my camera and use both eyes to focus with please?

Animator

If you see someone without a smile
Give them one of yours :-))

What you need is a split-screen focusing screen, like on the old film cameras.
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/

Or, if you have it available, use the live-view on the monitor.

Can I ask why you're focusing manually? The AF on modern cameras is pretty good.

Valley of the Sun, Arizona
D2Xs, D200's, D100's, LightRoom, CS-CC
2HowardsPhoto.biz
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#4

Thanks all for your replies. I want to use manual because AF is no good for macro shots. I have a look at the split screen thing and then try connecting the camera to the PC.

Thanks again.

(Oct 9, 2013, 15:22)Wall-E Wrote:  
(Oct 9, 2013, 11:36)Animator Wrote:  Hi All

I got a problem with manual focusing. I got an eye condition and both my eyes have grey patches in them. If I use just one eye, bits of what I am looking at are missing. I focus manually and the subject looks good but the image comes out with more blur than the pop group. However, if I use both eyes everything looks good. Does anyone out there know of any device that I can fix to my camera and use both eyes to focus with please?

Animator

If you see someone without a smile
Give them one of yours :-))

What you need is a split-screen focusing screen, like on the old film cameras.
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/

Or, if you have it available, use the live-view on the monitor.

Can I ask why you're focusing manually? The AF on modern cameras is pretty good.

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#5

Does your camera have selective auto focus points, or similar, what camera are you using. Ed.
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#6

(Oct 10, 2013, 07:49)EdMak Wrote:  Does your camera have selective auto focus points, or similar, what camera are you using. Ed.

Hi Ed

Yes. It's a Canon 50D :-))
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#7

More than likely you can work out a technique using this function, a start, either select a suitable segment, and go from there, or, use a convenient one, with least camera moving, then when focused, carefully switch to manual, before gently repositioning the camera? Ed.
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#8

What camera? With Canon DSLR's you could use live view.
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#9

(Oct 14, 2013, 18:15)JDS Wrote:  What camera? With Canon DSLR's you could use live view.

Which, if you read the ENTIRE thread, you would have seen me mention several posts back. And only some Canons and Nikons HAVE live view.

Valley of the Sun, Arizona
D2Xs, D200's, D100's, LightRoom, CS-CC
2HowardsPhoto.biz
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#10

A problem I had with my 350D (no live view) was that the little wheel to alter the diopter would sometimes inadvertently get moved a notch or two. I discovered this when my pictures were not sharp enough.
I like to use manual focus, but first I always check the focus using center-spot Auto focus, then I make sure that the diopter is still in focus, by adjusting the diopter setting wheel, then I will switch to Manual focus.
For critical focusing I focus on a neutral grey card with cross hairs printed onto it,
and presto, perfect pic's. I can then also use the grey card shot in post processing for checking white balance or for setting custom white balance on camera custom settings.
Remember, if you have 20/20 vision set the diopter to zero, if you wear glasses, and like me take them off to shoot, then setting the diopter is most important to get a crisp image in the viewfinder.
I was going to replace the screen with a split screen focusing ring and buy a prescription dioptric element for my camera, but I find that this works fine.
Many focusing topics forget wearing glasses can have a big impact and this would always be a good starting point.
SET YOUR CAMERA FOCUS FOR YOUR GLASSES PRESCRIPTION FIRST.


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#11

(Feb 27, 2014, 09:58)joe1953x Wrote:  A problem I had with my 350D (no live view) was that the little wheel to alter the diopter would sometimes inadvertently get moved a notch or two. I discovered this when my pictures were not sharp enough.
I like to use manual focus, but first I always check the focus using center-spot Auto focus, then I make sure that the diopter is still in focus, by adjusting the diopter setting wheel, then I will switch to Manual focus.
For critical focusing I focus on a neutral grey card with cross hairs printed onto it,
and presto, perfect pic's. I can then also use the grey card shot in post processing for checking white balance or for setting custom white balance on camera custom settings.
Remember, if you have 20/20 vision set the diopter to zero, if you wear glasses, and like me take them off to shoot, then setting the diopter is most important to get a crisp image in the viewfinder.
I was going to replace the screen with a split screen focusing ring and buy a prescription dioptric element for my camera, but I find that this works fine.
Many focusing topics forget wearing glasses can have a big impact and this would always be a good starting point.
SET YOUR CAMERA FOCUS FOR YOUR GLASSES PRESCRIPTION FIRST.

The way to check the diopter setting is to look at the data display in the optical viewfinder. Adjust the diopter until *that* is the sharpest you can get it.

Valley of the Sun, Arizona
D2Xs, D200's, D100's, LightRoom, CS-CC
2HowardsPhoto.biz
Reply


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