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My first portrait.
#1

Wow, I did my first portrait today few hours ago. As my aunt was here with her grandchild I decided to get started with portraits. You might guess already that it's not so easy to tell a small 4-5 year old child to stay still while I'm photographing.
I couldn't do any preperations as they were in a hurry and that is why I couldn't get a satisfying result with lightning - it is dark outside and I only could use my 2 tungsten lamps. They couldn't give enough light and he just couldn't be still, so I decided to use a high ISO speed (you know, I can't change the exposure time and aperature manually) and here's my best one:
[Image: kennu.jpg]

I did quite a lot post processing, because there was terribly high noise-level! I used ISO 400. The low shutter speed kind a washed out the colors of the picture and I couldn't get the right colors back, so I thought that black and white would suit the best. As it was my first actual portrait, I'm quite satisfied with the result. Smile

Any friendly suggestions are expected! Smile

And by the way, if anyone is interested in EXIF:
ExposureTime : 1/13Sec
FNumber : F4,5
FocalLength : 14,42(mm)
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#2

What cmera are you using ? I would have gone for a faster shutter speed (1/60/90 perhaps), slightly higher DOF at F8.0 and the lowest ISO possible unless you want noise in the shot, mind you at 400-800 my D-SLR is pretty much noise free. Get yourself a remote/wireless flash and use it in bounce mode, it will give a nice soft, even light using reflected light. Move back from your subject, most portrait lenses are around 100mm, this will give you a great working space to set up whatever you decide to use.

Cheers.

Pete

Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm
not sure about the former.

Albert Einstein
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#3

I'm using Canon Ixus 30 and I can't change the shutter speed nor the aperature, unfortunately.
And there's no hot shoe on my Ixus 30.
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#4

Okay, with a small point and shoot with no manual modes you are limited in what you can do so really you need to increase the available light so you can use higher shutter speeds. You can change the ISO and this camera will go down to ISO50, thats good but again you will need good light to use it. Using a remotely fired flash you don't need a hotshoe on the camera, when the camera flash fires the off camera flash will fire as well, just make sure that the camera is not set for red eye reduction.

I did not mention it before but you can also use reflectors to add light, the commercial ones are expensive but a piece of white card will work just the same, I use several pieces of an old display that was printed on a piece of corrugated plastic board, the back is white and not printed on, I have folded these so they stand up by themselves, light weight and easy to store.

Whatever you do try and keep away from direct flash because it is relatively harsh and will give maximum shadows, of course sometimes you might want those effects and in that case go for it.

I am sure others will add their thoughts to this.

By the way I really love your composition on this shot.

Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm
not sure about the former.

Albert Einstein
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#5

Thanks for the advice, Peted. Smile
Guess I just have to start practicing with my equipment. I am curious about this reflectors' idea, but I'll try to work on it someday.
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#6

Yes, I think the main problem here is the lighting. Was it at all possible to go outside, or near a window or door?
The main problem I have with this pic are the shadows in the eye area (I still have this problem sometimes though with my son, and good lighting) The best way I think to combat this is to try and get him near a window and look for the 'catchlights' in the eyes.
In my experience, with my little go getter, you really need a shutter speed of at least 1/125 to be sharp, just because of how quickly them move. The higher the better really, but as Peto said, that requires more light unless you want to bump the iso up.
Nice expression and great composition, keep it up!

Canon 350D with Speedlight 580EX flash
EFS 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 II, EF 90-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM, EF 50mm f/1.8

http://www.inspired-images.com.au
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#7

Actually, it was possible to go near the window and we were quite near it, but it was dark outside and there was no point in going outside when it was dark and -25 degrees.

Maybe I could work with the shadows near the eyes in Photoshop, but I don't think it does any good the the quality (as it is bad already due to the noise reduction).
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#8

The light is poor here as well... and very cold... well, not as cold as in your country but still very cold to go out and take pictures...

I like your close up but I think it is too close... Maybe if you took the picture a bit further?

A work of art which did not begin in emotion is not art.
Paul Cezanne
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#9

I'm going to be a bit contrarian and say that I like it the way it is. A photographic portrait isn't a painting; you'll have more than one and you're free to capture your subject in creative and expressive ways.

I smiled when I saw it; he seems like a fun kid and someone I'd like to know, even though he's a handful.

My question is, does this portrait capture an aspect of the subjects' personality? It's pretty clear from your description that it does. It's not anyone's textbook example, but who reads textbooks for fun? (Okay, other than me.) My only suggestion would be to crop out some of his forehead, probably down to a 5:4 aspect ratio, and to choose a simple black wooden frame with minimal matting for when you give an 8x10 print to your aunt.

matthewpiers.com • @matthewpiers | robertsonphoto.blogspot.com | @thewsreviews • thewsreviews.com
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#10

Matthew, yes, I tried to capture the personality of Kenneth in this case.
I liked your opinion about a portrait - that it's not a painting and you're free to capture it in creative ways.

And I'll try your idea of this wooden frame and cropping thing. I'll try to figure out when it is his birthday and maybe he'll get a fun present from me. Smile

Thanks for your feedback.
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#11

[Image: kennunewSM.jpg]

Some post-processing solutions.
1. adjust curves, lower levels of darkest areas (reduce contrast)
2. Filter/brush strokes/accent edges/set to thinnest, darkest line
3. soften the hardest lines with bluring blush
4. decrease contrast.

[Image: kennu2SM.jpg]

use edit/fade/overlay
instead of steps 3 and 4

Nikon D3100 with Tokina 28-70mm f3.5, (I like to use a Vivitar .43x aux on the 28-70mm Tokina), Nikkor 10.5 mm fisheye, Quanteray 70-300mm f4.5, ProOptic 500 mm f6.3 mirror lens. http://donschaefferphoto.blogspot.com/
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#12

In a quiet and serious tone, Rufus says;

"That reminds me, I must visit Roswell, New Mexico..........................."

Cave canem
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#13

Hey Xeox!

I am right there with you, just started taking my first portraits, and I find indoor light is one of the biggest obstacles to overcome.

Even with the 350D I find noise levels are unacceptable at ISO400, so you have to find ways around cranking up the ISO. Personally I found going b/w is a nice thing at the beginning because it makes your pics look less horrible (let's be honest here, in this small privat round.... :/ ), thus not as discouraging.
Especially noise can be disguised to some extend - it can look just like a coarser grain.

Irma just pointed me to this great instruction on b/w conversion the other day:
http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=3331
if you have photoshop, it's extremely valuable, and you can play with it.

When I absolutely have to be inside I look to be near windows, even though that means you have to be aware of strong contrasts sometimes.

I like your approach to perspective very much, and it's always worth looking out for kids, they are such rewarding subjects.

So congrats on your first portrait, hope to see more soon!

Uli
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#14

It does look a little spooky doesn't it. I was just trying to demonstrate a possibility. (Even though I really like it this way).

Nikon D3100 with Tokina 28-70mm f3.5, (I like to use a Vivitar .43x aux on the 28-70mm Tokina), Nikkor 10.5 mm fisheye, Quanteray 70-300mm f4.5, ProOptic 500 mm f6.3 mirror lens. http://donschaefferphoto.blogspot.com/
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#15

I'm not too sure if this is the pose I would have went for in a portrait style shot. Remember too that there is a difference between a portrait shot and a candid shot. This image in my opinion is too much "in your face" pardon the pun. Back up a little. If you really are looking to get a shot to fill the frame, do it in a crop. I won't get into the lighting issue as everyone seems to have already touched on that. Go back and try again. Smile Get your subject to look up more.

Sit, stay, ok, hold it! Awww, no drooling! :O
My flickr images
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#16

Don, interesting processings, but (no offence) they look too spooky for me.

Wulinka, I agree with you that processing my first portaits into B/W kind of makes them more acceptable than in RGB. Smile

I most definitely got courage from you to take more portaits !
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