gd pointed something out to me regarding Nikon flashes and their compatibility with DSLRs. It appears that the only flash that is compatible with the D70 is the SB-800 which is almost 900 aussie buckerooos. This is becaues the D70 uses I-TTL whereas all the older flashguns use D-TTL.
I'm thinking -- that's a bit steep for Nikon users isn't it?
With Canon, I believe their DSLRs are compatible with all the speedlights from the very bottom of the range $200-one up to their flagship version.
Surely this must be an oversight on Nikon's part?
Oct 13, 2004, 21:52
(This post was last modified: Oct 13, 2004, 22:00 by paskelius.)
Nope - not true.
All the Nikon speedlights are compatible with the D70 (and most other Nikon bodies newer than 1990). A D70 using a combination of SB-600 or SB-800 speedlights can make use of Nikon's Advanced Lighting functionality wherein the camera can automatically balance the output of multiple flashes at different room positions wirelessly without the photographer having to exposure compensate in any way. Earlier bodies cannot use this functionality.
I use a SB-800 with my F100 - and it works just fine - but an SB-23 would have worked as well (well - not as well - but it would have worked).
This is a huge difference from saying that only the SB-800 is compatible with the D70. All Nikon speedlights will work with the D70. Newer digital bodies can make use of this superb Advance Lighting functionality.
Yeah - I was considering buying 50s as slave flashes but now I have broken down and bought slaved studio strobes with umbrellas, soft box, etc. It is actually more economical if you don't already own the other flashes, and provides greater flexibilioty for protraits, weddings etc..
You can always setup your flashes on stands with with choices of umbrellas and softboxes, the power on the bigger flash units like the 800 works reasonably well for couples or individual portraits if you have a few of them.
I did the same thing on the Canon side with 2 x 550EX's and a 420 EX, the softbox and adapter ring was under $150 US.
[The warning that should be in my signature]Sorry for noob questions but is TTL a rating or something?
And Studio strobes, do they use the same function as the slave flashes to trigger? (I am not even sure how the slave flashes are triggered but ah well, at least I know (if the question is answered) that is the camera supports a slave flash OIt will support a studio flash.
Oct 14, 2004, 00:30
(This post was last modified: Oct 14, 2004, 00:32 by Russt.)
I'm going to test my knowledge and then have people change it around on me so I learn.. but basically as I understand TTL, it is Through-The-Lens. So in terms of the flash, the exposure is adjusted when the shutter release is depressed such that the amount of flash-light needed to expose the scene correctly is fired.
On the 50DX which started all this, it didn't support the TTL way of life and only fired the flash at manual or full output ....
And my slaves (or the ones I'll buy from the Romans.. I mean, camera dealers) are fired wirelessly by sensing the light of the flash (either infra-red if you don't want a front fired flash in the shot) or by the front fire (or master) flash.
how'd I do for a guy who a week and a half ago did a friend's wedding reception with his on board little flash!!!
Your understanding of TTL is pretty accurate (not that I am an expert in lighting - I am just getting setup myself).
Slave flashes detect light from the master flash (remember to turn preflash off) with a light sensor and then fire simultaneously. Sometimes you need to buy a separate trigger to make your flash work this way - if you are planning to go this route - check the slave trigger requirments of your flash out before you buy.
Studio strobes in the lower powers 100-200 watts/sec tend to be cheaper than flashes, and are adequate for individuals and small groups - initially you would want a 3 light setup - key light, fill light and rim light - my setup is my SB-800 and 2 strobes (slave triggers built in).
The 2 strobes with stands, 1 softbox, 1 umbrella, 1 set of barn doors, 1 snoot, 1 honeycomb, and a carrying case came to about $500 Cdn - which is much cheaper than buying flashes. The strobes have modeling lights, and adjustable power levels. This setup should be adequate for the amount of portraiture and product shooting that I currently do, and can be upgraded on a piece by piece basis if the need arises.
If I had other speedlights, I would have used them instead of one or more of the strobes. When I priced it out, there was no advantage to using speedlights for your secondary lights if you don't already own them. You still need the stands, umbrellas etc. to setup formal studio lighting whether you use flashes or strobes.
If I was using a D70 - I might have gone with an SB-600 for the fill light and a standard continuous light (not a strobe) for the rim light. That would have allowed me to use the full functionality of the speedlights at a "reasonable" cost.
a) the light around the outer rim of a basketball hoop
b) how the cows get into the barn
c) a cardboard box left in the rain
d) something you do with snuff
e) a delicious bee flavoured candy
Sheesh, I thought all those were obvious!
Rim Light - Basically creates a rim around your subject seperating it from the background, I like rim lighting directly behind the subject that spills over much like you see when you can see a glow behind their hair.
Barn Doors - Much like what you see on stage lighting, one or two sets of panels that open and close to control your lighting direction and spill.
Soft Box - A large rectangular panel with a hole in the back to poke your light through, covered in a single or double layer of diffusing white material, they also come in different shapes and sizes such as the strip light I use, it gives a very soft light hence the "soft" part of the name.
Snoot - Erm a cone shaped device that mounts on the front of the light, you can alter the level of effect it has, basically a fairly clean spot, used in combo with honeycombs and other grids for hairlights
Honeycomb - Mentioned above, named for the shape of the cells that affect the lighting, its primarily used to give harder light with interesting shadows, combined with different angular grids it can give some quite speccy results.
Hope that helps, time for lunch then I'm off to the Hot Rod show to shoot some cars before the people turn up tomorrow.
thanks for that, sounds like there are a lot of things that each have their place in portrait photos... thanks!
hmmm... and here I am working like a sucker when you're off doing that.
if only I had my wet cardboard and cows.. then you'd see!