[Toad]

The Western Fjords. Few visitors to Iceland come here – the Ring Highway skips it altogether. Hólmavík at the eastern gate is home to the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. Látrabjarg is beloved of birders who come to see the puffins , and where I was kicked out of the westernmost pub in Europe at closing time. To the south lies the Baldur Ferry connecting the Western Fjords to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula - picking its way through the 40 or so islets of the Breiðafjörður.


Garmin Oregon 450 GPS Tracks displayed in Google Earth


We weren’t sure about coming here either. It felt way out of the way, and our roadmap showed a long stretch of twisty unpaved road through the mountains between Ísafjörður and Breiðavík that we were dreading. To our surprise, it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.Turn after turn, the landscape unfolded, vista building on vista, as if to say “See – I told you it would be worthwhile”. We are left with a stunned appreciation of the pure, unfinished splendor of this environment.


Leica M9 / 50mm Leica Summicron-M, ISO 160, F9.5, 1/350 sec


Occasionally, the landscape opens to reveals roadside quirks - a beached ship, a WWII transport plane lying by the side of the road, and a tribute to lost ships - a Christian cross surrounded by standing stones. Eventually, we arrive at our hotel at Breiðavík. Our goal is Látrabjarg, and its famous bird cliffs. By nightfall on our day of arrival, the gorgeous weather of the previous day has given way to gale force winds and horizontal rain. We decide to forgo the cliffs until the next day.


Leica M9 / 50mm Leica Summicron-M, ISO 160, F11, 1/250 sec


We wake to faintly improved weather - still very windy and cold, but not yet pouring rain. I walk in the surrounding hills with a pair of sheep herding dogs who evidently feel that I look like fun. One of them brings a rock in his mouth and drops it at my feet. In a landscape where there isn't a stick for miles, I guess that you use a rock to play "fetch". Its feels very poignant, but there is no lack of enthusiasm for the game until their master calls them away.

We head for the bird cliffs, in a wind so strong that you have to approach the cliff edge on hands and knees. Strangely enough, there are no puffins in attendance - what the heck? I am subsequently told by an Icelander that there has been a significant decrease in the bird population there over the last few years. The fish on which the puffins feed are not coming in numbers to Iceland. Nobody knows exactly why, but climate change is the prime suspect. No fish - no birds. In a land with such a fragile environment, the effects of ecological change are immediate and visible.


Leica M9 / 50mm Leica Summicron-M, ISO 160, F11, 1/30 sec


The next morning sees us heading back to Reykjavik. This massive four wheel drive truck in line at the Baldur Ferry is an excellent example of the modified vehicles built to navigate the rugged interior of Iceland. This one looks like it was a military transport in a previous life. Our rental car is the little red job sniffing the Super 4x4's tail.


Leica M9 / 50mm Leica Summicron-M, ISO 160, F9.5, 1/125 sec

[Kombisaurus]

ooo... fantastic Rob!
I absolutely love the idea of huge open remote spaces like this. I'm so jealous right now.
Great to see you enjoying yourself and taking the time to follow those unsealed windy roads. They're always the most interesting.

Lovely photos too. I can't wait to see more of them. You can console yourself to the fact that lousy weather often provides the most photogenic skies, and a landscape like that is just begging for a big, dark, dramatic sky.

[NT73]

I used to like walking into uncharted territory, to see what lay around the next corner.
As I can't walk far now you can do it for me. Aurora Borealis next please.

[Toad]

You can console yourself to the fact that lousy weather often provides the most photogenic skies, and a landscape like that is just begging for a big, dark, dramatic sky.

Too right. I have some photos with bright sunny skies and some with dark foreboding skies - the dark skies are usually more dramatic.

Aurora Borealis next please.

Wish I could oblige. Iceland in August has 20 hour days. The winter is a better time for the Aurora...

[Toad]

When I read this story again a day later, I find that it ends a bit abruptly and on a down note. So, I have added a final section to the story and another photo to bring the mood back up, and to tie it all back to the beginning.

Not sure that its *legal* to modify a story after there have already been comments, but there it is...

[Zig]

Captivating and engaging with a couple of stunners too...I love that painterly feel. Just remarkable: the whole thing about you actually being there; I hope you can find time to post some more along with your travelogue; fascinating.

[Toad]

Thanks Zig. I Have a couple of ideas for new Iceland stories (and a couple of more for Italy as well) on deck. Thanks for reading and commenting.

[matthew]

Great photos and great story. I do appreciate the more upbeat ending, but having the note about traveling on to the next place also suits the beginning of the story as well.

[Toad]

Thanks very much, Matt.

[shuttertalk]

Lovely Rob, thanks for sharing. The landscape looks absolutely out of this world....

Love the watermark, by the way!

[nia]

WOW! These photographs are so beautiful dear Robert, fascinated me. I wished to be there too. Thank you, with my love, nia

[Toad]

Thanks very much Jules and nia!